Pierre Cardin’s 90th birthday comeback proved a
mishmash of sorts. The visually confusing array of 138 looks began with a rubix
cube of Tropicana. Rounded contours in blue, tangerine and fuscia turned to
military elements in aqua, canary yellow and plum. Shortly followed by
sleeveless overcoats in tartan and tweed, the spring/summer vibe was thrown in
the air by a parade of black polo necks cowering under sheathes of such
intricately fastened outerwear.
The futuristic and space age aesthetic Cardin has championed
on and off from the 1960s was revived this season. Black leather tops were
piped in red and green, with a lime coloured slice appearing through a holed
chest, taking on the connotation of a tie.
Highly texturized fabrics in navy and burgundy were followed
by PVC edges surrounding a fluro palette. Summer was suddenly back in the room
with washboard torsos striding out wearing thick medallions and holed
trousers. Almost as if they had been
washed ashore as the future’s very own Robinson Crusoe.
Tousled, wide shouldered suits swamped undone ties and
collars standing to attention. Buttons matched their coloured slacks.
Like a rose between a cluster of thorns, a khaki coat housed
upon a slate polo neck brought some wear ability to the collection. Sleeves
retreated, as the palette became lighter.
Visor shades injected an ounce of fluidity throughout a
collection using every material and a design team running with a multitude of
tangents.
Sequin, velvet and crinoline engulfed space suits left
nothing to the imagination, paving the way for an unexpected female
finale.
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