Pierre Cardin’s 90th birthday comeback proved a mishmash of sorts. The visually confusing array of 138 looks began with a rubix cube of Tropicana. Rounded contours in blue, tangerine and fuscia turned to military elements in aqua, canary yellow and plum. Shortly followed by sleeveless overcoats in tartan and tweed, the spring/summer vibe was thrown in the air by a parade of black polo necks cowering under sheathes of such intricately fastened outerwear.
The futuristic and space age aesthetic Cardin has championed on and off from the 1960s was revived this season. Black leather tops were piped in red and green, with a lime coloured slice appearing through a holed chest, taking on the connotation of a tie.
Highly texturized fabrics in navy and burgundy were followed by PVC edges surrounding a fluro palette. Summer was suddenly back in the room with washboard torsos striding out wearing thick medallions and holed trousers. Almost as if they had been washed ashore as the future’s very own Robinson Crusoe.
Tousled, wide shouldered suits swamped undone ties and collars standing to attention. Buttons matched their coloured slacks.
Like a rose between a cluster of thorns, a khaki coat housed upon a slate polo neck brought some wear ability to the collection. Sleeves retreated, as the palette became lighter.
Visor shades injected an ounce of fluidity throughout a collection using every material and a design team running with a multitude of tangents.
Sequin, velvet and crinoline engulfed space suits left nothing to the imagination, paving the way for an unexpected female finale.
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